Newsday food writer Erica Marcus visited Dario's Pizza in West Hempstead, a slice shop that goes above and beyond. Credit: Newsday/Howard Schnapp

What’s new on this year’s list of Long Island’s best pizza? More slices!

On Long Island — and across the country — there’s a slice-shop renaissance afoot. Pizzaioli are lavishing the same kind of attention on the standard 18-inch “New York” pizza that used to be the exclusive province of upscale, personal Neapolitan pies, using better tomatoes, better cheese, better toppings and, most importantly, better dough.

Pizza snobs (guilty!) have long assumed that a pie sold by the slice was made with undistinguished ingredients, lacked finesse and was based on a crust that acted as a topping conveyance, nothing more. But now, a new wave of pizza makers is choosing flours that bestow flavor and texture instead of flours designed to be easy to work with. They add more water to the dough to create a lighter crust, and they employ a days-long fermentation process that adds depth and digestibility. You know you’re eating a new-wave pizza when you eat every morsel of crust.

Half of the 14 shops on this year’s best pizza list sell slices, but that’s not to say you won’t find plenty of classic Neapolitan (and Roman) pies too. What unites them all? Consummate deliciousness.

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