Chef Dario returns to Dario's Pizza in West Hempstead

The biggest recent change at Dario’s, one of Long Island's best pizzerias, is that founding chef Dario Carosi is back. The eponymous pizzaiolo, who had not originally been a partner, left in August and briefly worked at Taglio, the Roman pizza specialist in Mineola and Massapequa Park.

But soon after Carosi left, the pizzeria’s owners, Sergio DeCiantis and Francesco Maola, sold the place to a new group — brothers Andrew, Chris and Lou Cretella and Mike Manzella. And, noted Andrew, "We couldn’t have Dario’s without Dario." They reached out to Carosi, made him a partner and, on Oct. 17, he returned to West Hempstead.

When Dario’s opened in early 2023, virtually nothing was done to the shop that had been the kosher Sauly’s Pizza. The new team has done a sleek black-and-white renovation of both the pizza counter and the dining room, and that dining room is now twice the size since Dario’s has taken over the adjacent storefront.

The expansion has also afforded Carosi much more kitchen space: He now has a dedicated room to store his flours and make his doughs, one for the lofty rectangular Roman pies and another one for the big round pies that look like classic New York pizzas but have the toothsome and complex crusts that only high hydration and long fermentation can bestow. The regular menu features about 10 pies (your choice of square or round), six sandwiches (made on homemade focaccia) and lots of daily specials. A trained pastry chef, Carosi also makes killer bomboloni (Italian doughnuts), crostatas and more.

Dario’s, 239 Nassau Blvd., West Hempstead, 516-279-4390, dariospizzali.com. Open Monday to Thursday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday noon to 8 p.m.