Cherry Amber Asian fusion opens in former Plainview Diner

Diner closures are a sad fact of the Long Island hospitality scene. But every once in a while, there’s a silver lining — a new restaurant breathes life into a deconsecrated diner structure. It might be Latin, it might be barbecue, but some of the most successful resurrections have been Asian: Orient Garden in New Hyde Park, Koi Sushi Lounge in Sayville, Fancy Lee in Babylon, Chopsticks in Rocky Point.

Now comes Cherry Amber, an Asian fusion eatery that opened last month in what used to be the Plainview Diner (1972-2022).

Owner Joyce Li renovated the space inside and out, giving it a blingy-modern feel. The bones of the old establishment are still evident in the row of booths that face the parking lot and the old counter, which has been repurposed into a bar. (A liquor license is imminent.)

Li also owns Red Crab and Wild Ginger in Rockville Centre, and manager Sunandan Kumar was transplanted from the latter to lead the team in Plainview. He said that, so far, about 75% of Cherry Amber’s customers were former diner customers. "They walk in, they say, ‘Oh, you are open!’ and they share their memories from when it was a diner."

While they can no longer order a Western omelet or a club sandwich or a turkey dinner, Kumar said that they are well-versed in most of what the Asian fusion menu has to offer. The largest category is sushi, with starters ranging from $14 to $18; entrees, from $18 to $34. There are classic and chef special rolls; the Cherry Amber roll, $16, contains pepper tuna and avocado, topped with spicy tuna and scallions.

The rest of the menu surveys the kitchens of China, Japan, Thailand and Indonesia — all of which are filtered through a crowd-pleasing suburban lens: honey-barbecue ribs, Thai coconut shrimp, gyoza, tom yam and wonton soups, pad Thai and lo mein, duck with wok-glazed ginger and scallions, honey-walnut crispy chicken and shrimp, sliced flank steak with Thai basil, "Thai casserole" with red curry, basil chicken and shrimp. Starters range from $6 to $20 (for foie gras toast); entrees from $14.50 to $33 (for grilled filet mignon with jumbo shrimp). No matter what cuisine you’re interested in, there’s a lunch special ($12 to $19) for you.

Cherry Amber, 1094 Old Country Rd., Plainview, 516-960-7123, cherryamberny.com. Open Monday to Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sunday noon to 10 p.m.