New Long Island restaurants to try

Tiki Tacos, Miller Place

Crazy Beans in Miller Place might not be the first place Long Island foodies think of to go to for mai tais and tacos, but its new nighttime concept seeks to change that. By day, Crazy Beans is an all-day breakfast and brunch spot, serving comfort food like chicken and waffles alongside avocado toast and pancake quesadillas. Rather than close for the day at 4 p.m., owners Callie and Timothy Martino partnered with John Louis of the Maui Chophouse food truck and chef Madison "Maddy" Bender (you've seen her on the reality cooking show "Hell's Kitchen") to create a nighttime taco restaurant open until 10 p.m. The Hawaiian-inspired menu is similar to the menu Louis had at the now-shuttered Maui Chophouse in Rocky Point. Build-your-own tacos ($13.99 for two) can be had with teriyaki beef or tofu, coconut shrimp, pulled pork or garlic butter shrimp, and your choice of toppings and sauce. There's a beef "spamburger" served with pineapple, jalapeño and sriracha aioli. Tiki-inspired drinks include non-alcoholic Hawaiian POG — that's passionfruit, orange and guava juiced — along with the requisite mai tai or blue Hawaiian made with made with coconut rum, blue Curacao and pineapple juice.

The Farm Italy, Westbury

When The Farm Italy debuted in Huntington in 2023, it was one of the biggest openings of the year, transforming a Huntington Village steakhouse into a sprawling Tuscan fantasy. Now it has a sibling as The Farm Italy opened in Westbury. Similar to the Huntington original, the design mimics a sweeping Italian countryside estate, transporting guests as they enter the stunning space. Not to be missed: The serene, covered outdoor terrace, complete with fire pit, that adds 70 seats to the 150 inside. Chef Roberto Baez replicates the same seasonal menu featured in Huntington here, with starters like tagliolini, a creamy, cheesy pasta dish made with Pecorino, eggs and coppa. In the pasta category, don’t miss the signature cacio e pepe and more seasonal offerings like spaghetti with lobster in a creamy, fra diavolo sauce, and ribbonlike malfandine with jumbo lump crab, gremolata butter, bread crumb and Fresno chile. For entrees, requisite chicken, veal and eggplant Parms sit alongside fileted branzino, NY strip and more.  

La Bottega, Babylon

La Bottega, a casual Italian chainlet with five locations across the Island, has added a sixth: Babylon Village can now share in the joy of oversized chicken cutlets, hand-pulled mozzarella and gently pressed paninis. With just nine tables inside and four along the sidewalk, Babylon’s La Bottega is cozy and warm, with a counter to the left and sit-down dining room to the right. The menu is loaded with Italian-inspired fare — both light and heavy — from soups, salads and sandwiches, all popular at lunchtime, to hearty pastas, generous chicken Milanese variations, and entrees including chicken breast in a white wine and lemon sauce, flank steak and grilled salmon served with shrimp.

Hundredfold, Elmont

The new Hundredfold sure is a handsome space, with a star chef to boot. With its tall ceilings, open kitchen and art-gallery-meets-farmhouse decor, the sprawling brasserie is a lovely place to spend an afternoon. Hundredfold opened in July with a James Beard-winning chef from Los Angeles, Timothy Hollingsworth, who previously worked as chef de cuisine at The French Laundry in Yountville, California. There is a raw bar complete with a caviar bump and a vodka martini, along with dishes like escargot, spinach artichoke dip and a small but worthy trio of deviled eggs complete with an adorable caricature on the plate. The restaurant also has a nostalgic thing going with its French bread pizzas, which can come smothered in mushrooms, French onion toppings or pepperoni hot honey. The Hundredfold cheeseburger is a highlight, with its tasty tomato jam that added a sweet touch. 

Fēniks, Southampton

The focus of Fēniks is the chef’s tasting menu, served at a six-seat counter and prepared by Douglas Gulija, who ran The Plaza Cafe, the Southampton restaurant that he and his wife, Andi, opened in 1997 and which closed in June. The tasting menu, $285 for eight courses, changes constantly but might feature Wagyu tartare with potato pavé; a tower of local tuna and lump crabmeat atop avocado-wasabi mash with yuzu "air"; duck breast with Asian slaw, peach-hoisin sauce and duck-fat fingerling potatoes; prime rib-eye cap roulade with Okinawan sweet potato, snap peas and soy Bordelaise sauce. But there’s also an a la carte menu for the 20-seat dining room adjacent to the counter and a roster of elevated bar snacks served upstairs at "Skip’s Lounge." The a la carte menu includes some old Plaza Cafe favorites: plancha-seared local calamari on hummus and day-boat scallops on sweet-corn polenta.

Banjara, Bethpage

Banjara seems like a giant, cinematic restaurant — it's the kind of place that sets its chicken tikka on fire at the table and has its servers pouring curry out of seashells onto your plate. Nearly every dish has a theatrical component, even the ice cream. The Indian fusion menu imanages to encompass most of the regions of the Indian subcontinent. Scanning the two pages, you'll see lots of interesting titles, like shrimp malai curry, crab sukkha and paneer pinwheel changezi. One visit barely scratches the surface here, but initial highlights included a deeply spiced goat curry called laal maas and a standout chicken biryani.

Pisco Nikkei, Centereach

When Christina and Harry Caldera discovered Peruvian cuisine during many food-driven trips to Queens, it resulted in the opening of Selden’s Picchu in 2022. Three years later, the pair opened their second Peruvian restaurant, Pisco Nikkei, just a stone’s throw away on Middle Country Road in Centereach. This second restaurant is an homage to Nikkei, the Japanese-Peruvian fusion that focuses on sushi, raw fish and other Japanese influences. The Pisco ceviche, made with sea bass, is served with fried calamari atop, while the tricolor version features tuna, yellowtail and salmon. The Labyrinth, or generous portion of tuna tataki, is served around a microgreen salad dressed with toasted sesame and a citrus soy drizzle. The Papa roll is stuffed with crab, avocado and cucumber, topped with salmon, crunchy potato sticks and creamy papa a la huincaína sauce. If raw fish isn’t your bag, there are plenty of hot, classic Peruvian entrees, like stir-fried lomo saltado.

Abu Zayn, Rockville Centre

Abu Zayn looks like a place you'd find in the Little Egypt neighborhood of Astoria, Queens. Rotating spits of chicken and beef shawarma pop up from behind the counter of the small storefront on Merrick Road in Rockville Centre. A flat-screen TV plays classic Egyptian music as people dig in to elaborately plated meat platters with lush vegetable dips. The food definitely punches higher than the modest, but chic, setting. Abu Zayn is also the only place around that specializes in Egyptian-style shawarma. Abu Zayn keeps it simple, with a small menu of charcoal barbecued meats and shawarma sandwiches, which can be tucked into pita bread, baguettes or in the typical Egyptian style, on a Kaiser roll.

The Rich Pour, Massapequa Park

With leopard-print chairs, a gold jaguar statue, fuchsia signage and selfie walls, The Rich Pour in Massapequa Park could be the highly stylized bedroom of a teenage girl. It's a swanky coffee bar with Instagram-worthy colored coffees, dirty sodas and “croffles." Sisters Dana Masi and Melissa Schrade, both Massapequa residents, have put all of their creativity into transforming the former Cafe Bella space into their own java wonderland. Its whimsical menu of espressos, lattes and teas include the iced Blue Crush Caramel Macchiato and the Pink Pitaya, made with dragon fruit. Those who prefer straight-up coffee drinks can also get their fill. Caffeine-free fruit refreshers include the watermelon-strawberry splash; dirty sodas like the Peachy Keen made with orange Fanta, peach syrup, vanilla and a splash of cream, which tastes exactly like a Creamsicle.

Buttermilk's Farmhouse, Bay Shore

Pass the pancakes and syrup — popular brunch joint Buttermilk’s Farmhouse opened its second location in Bay Shore. The brand’s first location, on West Main Street in Patchogue, opened in 2018. The menu remains the same, offering apple pie pancakes, French toast bites and the Hercules, an omelet made with fresh spinach, feta cheese, diced tomatoes, scallions and oregano. The drinks menu includes mimosas, with choice of juice (orange, grapefruit or cranberry). Also on the menu is a Bloody Mary served with an everything bagel rim, and garnished with celery, olives and grape tomato.

The Pink Fin, Ronkonkoma

Hawaii and Japan come together at Ronkonkoma’s Station Yards newest restaurant, The Pink Fin. It's the third Long Island location for the fusion eatery, which has outposts in Coram and Selden. The menu consists of signature poke bowls like the Power Bowl, made of chicken, shrimp, crabmeat, edamame, avocado, carrots, scallions, cucumbers, coconut ginger and spicy mayonnaise. The eatery also has a build your own poke bowl experience and hibachi options. The Pink Fin’s drinks menu boasts a variety of flavors of bubble tea such as strawberry, matcha, rose and Thai iced tea. For a dollar extra add toppings such as strawberry, peach and mango pearls as well as boba and lychee jelly.

Alma Cocina, East Northport

New upscale Mexican eatery Alma Cocina is intimate, romantic and sleek. Chef-owner Catalina Criollo has more than 20 years of experience as a chef and was formerly executive chef at Pecado in Bay Shore. Her menu highlights regions of Mexico, with ceviches from Veracruz and Sinaloa, and dishes from Yucatan such as a pork shank pibil with black bean puree. Appetizers include queso fundido, a melted cheese dish made with Chihuahua cheese, poblano, onion and choice of chorizo or mushrooms served with a warm corn tortilla. The pollo en mole negro is roasted chicken breast, mole negro, rice, sweet plantains and sesame seeds. Soups, steaks and tacos round out the menu. Mixologist Carlos Apreza helms Alma Cocina’s build-your-own margarita experience. Choose a spirit (blanco tequila, mezcal or jalapeño-infused tequila) and go traditional or flavored (passionfruit, mango, watermelon and strawberry). The avocado spicy margarita is made with jalapeño-infused tequila, orange liqueur, fresh lime juice and fresh avocado.

Paulie's Pizzeria, Huntington Station

It’s been a busy month for Paul Hansen. While readying the resurrected Burger Haven in Huntington Village, he was also putting the finishing touches on a new pizzeria about two miles south in Huntington Station. Hansen said the team’s goal was "to create a circa-1979-era New York City pizzeria, with a thin and crispy pie, quality ingredients and everything homemade." They recruited Jeff Knox (who used to own Village Pizza in Sea Cliff) and Joe Competiello, an Italian fine-dining veteran from Queens (who has plans for those figs when they ripen: roasted-fig crostini with prosciutto and balsamic glaze). The finished menu is a classic combo of round pies, square pies (Sicilian, Grandma and more, chopped salads served in a large bowl or an individual homemade dough "pocket", heroes, baked pastas, pastas (gluten-free available), Parm-Francese-Marsala dinners served over pasta and traditional starters and sides. \

Hummus Fit, Huntington Station

Meal prepping for her health-conscious childhood friends as a side hustle turned into a family-owned business for Liana Mavruk and her husband, Tony. The duo opened another Hummus Fit, in Huntington Station, just across from the Walt Whitman Shops. This location features a make-your-own-salad and build-a-bowl bar for DIY dining. Choose lettuce, a wrap, or grains, a selection of toppings and proteins, and douse with dressing or sauce of your choice. If you’re not in the mood to curate your meal, there's a wall of refrigerated meals, which range from 400-500 calories. Those include grilled chicken Parm — one of many wrap options — Buffalo-style meatballs, General Tso’s chicken, chicken and rice with orange sauce, pasta with meat sauce, teriyaki flank steak, banana-chip protein pancakes and egg wraps.

Taco el Chingon, Huntington

The enormous menu at Taco el Chingon, the second location for owner Laura Lucero outside Bellmore, includes traditional street tacos made with corn tortillas and "foot-long" flour-tortilla tacos that are grilled after being filled. There are also low-carb (lettuce leaf) tacos and "American" tacos served in hard-shell tortillas. Beyond tacos are sopes and huaraches (thick corn tortillas — the former is round, the latter is oval — that are topped rather than filled), tortas (sandwiches on crusty rolls), nachos, burritos, quesadillas, flautas, guacamole and something called a machete, a big, handmade tortilla folded around beans, cheese and meat. Breakfast specialties include huevos rancheros, burritos stuffed with beans, eggs, tomatoes, cheese, jalapeños and meat, chilaquiles (tortilla chips topped with egg, beans, cheese, crema and meat, molletes (Portuguese bread stuffed with eggs and much more) as well as scrambled-egg breakfast platters.

Donohue's East, Westhampton Beach

Donohue’s East in Westhampton Beach debuted last month, but carries with it 75 years of history: The Manhattan landmark from which it descends opened in 1950, and the Long Island apple doesn’t fall very far from the Upper East Side tree. The menu is essentially the same as the one in Manhattan and could have been written in 1950: About the trendiest things on it are a goat cheese and beet salad and broiled branzino. Otherwise you’re looking at shrimp cocktail, cheeseburger, fish & chips, broiled Boston scrod, roast Maryland turkey with stuffing, gravy and cranberry sauce and "Dublin broil" (sliced flank steak with brown gravy and mushrooms). Double-cut pork chops, prime filet mignon and prime sirloin are all priced according to the market.

Hunan Tapas, Great Neck

Great Neck's Chinese food scene just got a bit spicier with the addition of Hunan Tapas, a second location of a sophisticated Long Island City restaurant. The small spot, which formerly held Mr. KEKE ramen, gives classic American Chinese dishes a jolt of Hunan spice. Signature dishes include General Tso's chicken, which is given a spicy Hunan twist with the addition of four peppers to the glaze, and Hunan-style sautéed beef.

Burger Haven, Huntington

Burger Haven is back. Huntington Village had been abuzz with questions when a "coming soon" banner was hung over the former Kick’N Chicken sign at 339 New York Ave. Savvy observers noted that while the name, lettering and burger-proffering-little-boy mascot were the same, the name "Conte’s" was missing. It was brothers John and Carl Conte who opened Burger Haven at 76 E Pulaski Rd. in Huntington Station in 1961, and John’s son, Robert Conte, who closed it in 2008. So, is the new Burger Haven a continuation of the old one? Sort of, said co-owner Paul Hansen. Robert Conte, Hansen said, "gave us the OK, but asked us not to use the family name. He even gave us some advice on how they made some of their items." While the original Burger Haven offered burgers, chicken, fish and, toward the end, tacos and quesadillas, the new incarnation has a very tight menu of burgers — including the Big Boy, a chicken sandwich, hand-cut fries and onion rings (both fried in beef tallow) plus sodas and milkshakes.

Kuku Korean Cuisine, Huntington

James Chen and Chris Pak are betting the farm on Korean food. Their new Kuku Korean Cuisine in Huntington is big, bold, stylish and unabashedly Korean. It takes over the East Main Street location that, from 2012 until last year, housed the Asian fusion restaurant, Ting. With almost 150 seats, it’s the biggest Korean restaurant on Long Island. You might start your meal with seafood pajeon (pancake studded with mussels, clams, squid and shrimp), japchae (stir-fried vermicelli), tteokbokki (rice cakes simmered in a spicy sauce) or chilled kudzu noodles. That’s right, that pesky, invasive vine has a root that can be made into noodles so elastic, they have to be cut with scissors before you can eat them. At Kuku, they are served in a beef broth so cold it has slush in it, with boiled egg, pickled radish, cucumbers and shredded apple. When colder weather hits, you’re going to want to curl up with some soon dubu, a hearty stew centered around silken tofu that might also feature beef, crab, mixed seafood or mushrooms. Grilled dishes include beef short rib (galbi) and rib-eye (bulgogi), pork, chicken and whole mackerel or croaker. There are nine variations on bibimbap, the famous rice bowl that comes topped with meat and fresh and pickled vegetables. Kuku has also pioneered the chi-bap, delectable chunks of fried chicken over rice. The chi-bap is an outgrowth of the restaurant’s fried-chicken menu which includes wings, drums, tenders and tiny "poppers."

La Focacceria, Long Beach

Long Beach marches to the beat of a different drum, and that's evident in the new La Focacceria, a shop that crafts pizza from focaccia bread. The shop opened in July in the former home of the vegan cafe Fermento. It's owned by wholesale product developer John Edwards. About 10 years ago, he created focaccia bread that was sold at Costco nationwide, which gave him the idea to open a focaccia shop. Each 10-inch pie has a dense, crispy focaccia bread crust that's halfway between a regular pizza and a Sicilian. Choose from quirky toppings such as taco meat, chicken Parmigiana, clams casino or bacon, egg and cheese.

Olga's, Riverhead

Evelin Vargas remembers a time when she and her siblings would travel almost an hour from their hometown in Guatemala to treat themselves to what they considered to be a luxury, the shuko sandwich. Now, the Vargas family has opened Olga’s, its second outpost on Long Island, in Riverhead, featuring their take on the traditional Guatemalan loaded sandwich. Listed as the "chévere" — meaning "cool" in Spanish — it includes steak, chorizo and chicken franks topped with guacamole, cabbage, ketchup, mayo, mustard and hot sauce. The Vargas’ first eatery, Olga’s Deli in East Quogue, opened in 2015, inspired by matriarch Olga Chucuy’s cooking. Dishes include the boss platter, or plato de jefe, with meat with caramelized onions, two eggs, home fries and avocado. On top of all-day breakfast items like egg sandwiches, pancakes and French toast ($15), omelets and breakfast burritos, the menu includes cheeseburgers, chicken fingers with french fries and Philly cheesesteak.

Rooh's BBQ Smoked Meat and Steakhouse, West Hempstead

West Hempstead's dining scene is ablaze — a new restaurant is turning up the heat with theatrical, hibachi-like "fire shows" alongside savory grilled meat platters and Middle Eastern specialties. Rooh’s BBQ Smoked Meat and Steakhouse has opened on Hempstead Turnpike with an eye-catching bright red-and-black exterior. But what goes on inside is even more entertaining. Owner Abdul Rahim Gul says the staff takes meats like short ribs and will "just literally throw fire at it" to cook while music plays in the background during "fire shows" that take place at 8 nightly. Rooh’s hot mezze platter comes with two Middle Eastern sambousek (meat-filled pastries similar to empanadas) with Turkish sausages and fried kebabs. Other dishes include smoked Wagyu brisket, whole chickens with smoked rice and a range of steaks, including a Wagyu tomahawk encrusted with edible gold leaf.

Cheeks & Bean Gelato Co., East Meadow

Teresa and Bob Fryer had been making gelato in their Bethpage home since the pandemic, using their Kitchen Aid mixer’s freezer bowl attachment. Now they're the owners of Cheeks & Bean Gelato Co. in East Meadow. Their gelato strikes a balance between traditional Italian flavors and more cutting-edge American ones. The intense pistachio is made with a puree of Sicilian nuts (and no filler almonds), and there’s a lighter version softened by white chocolate. Classics such as vanilla, chocolate, hazelnut, gianduja (hazelnut-chocolate), blueberry vanilla, stracciatella (chocolate chip) and lemon sorbetto are all terrific, as are more newfangled rainbow cookie, mint chocolate cookie, "princess cake" (a more refined, almond-forward take on birthday cake) and "Amalfi sunset," flavored with vanilla, lemon and almond wafers. There are also crepes, cookie sandwiches, "nachos," and more. Coffees are from Mongo's in Syosset, teas from Clipper Ship in Smithtown.

Pharmarista, Babylon

A dose of nostalgia lives on in Babylon village, where a charming new drugstore-soda shop blends the functionality of a pharmacy (insurance welcome!) with the convenience of a cafe. You want an egg cream or latte with your prescription? Pharmarista has you covered. The shop, a simple open space with exposed brick, has an elevated pharmacy counter — which has also has a wide selection of the over-the-counter meds — makes egg creams in vanilla or chocolate (complete with a pretzel stick), lattes, cappuccinos and espressos and tea. A candy wall is stocked with old-timey lollipops, throwback Goldenberg’s peanut chews, a full selection of chocolate bars, gum, and more modern favorites like Swedish fish and Sour Patch Kids.

Yunnandao Rice Noodles, Great Neck

First came Deng Ji in Levittown, followed by the Chinese chain Ten Seconds Yunnan Rice Noodles in Syosset earlier this summer. And now we've got the incredibly charming Yunnandao Rice Noodles in Great Neck, owned by a family hailing from the Yunnan province. Yunnandao dedicates its menu to the bouncy white rice noodles and their army of toppings. But it also serves some very hard-to-find dishes like Yunnan rose cakes that the family imports, and Dai-style pounded shredded chicken. Go with the Rising Fortune Crossing-The-Bridge Rice Noodles. A team of servers will deliver a boiling cauldron of bone broth and an array of toppings placed on a decorative wooden bridge. They'll load the meat and vegetable toppings into the soup, saving the playfully light noodles for the end.

Mihana Japanese Bistro, Woodbury

A good neighborhood sushi restaurant is a great addition to any town, and Syosset and its surroundings are getting a new one: Mihana Japanese Bistro & Bar, which quietly debuted in Commack last year, has expanded to Woodbury. The menu includes the usual suspects, from edamame and gyoza to seaweed salads, rock shrimp tempura and crispy tuna rice. A more interesting inclusion: an uni-Kumamoto oyster pairing dolloped with roe and doused with yuzu foam. Fancy signature rolls include the Valentine, with spicy crunchy tuna on the inside wrapped in tuna. Hot entrees include hibachi teriyaki and tempura entrees available in salmon, chicken and filet — which are generous and oversized, easily able to feed two. There are also build-your-own-ramen options and lunch specials from $10 Monday to Saturday. Don’t miss the long, inviting bar and cocktail menu.

Bagelati, Lake Grove

It’s a bagel shop! It’s a gelateria! It’s Bagelati! Selvi and Mehmet Bulut could also credibly lay claim to deli and cafe, so crammed with options is their 10-month-old Lake Grove shop. And there’s plenty of room to enjoy everything in this former Dunkin' Donuts. Bagels includes classics such as sesame, poppy and everything are joined by French toast, spinach, chocolate chip, Cheddar-jalapeño and more. To schmear is a panoply of cream cheeses including plain, vegetable, green olive, lox, bacon-scallion, strawberry, Oreo and Cheddar-jalapeño. There are also salads,omelets, breakfast pastries and sandwiches and, moving into lunch, deli sandwiches, panini and burgers. If you fancy something sweet there are slices of cake, baklava, Mehmet’s mother’s rice pudding and layered strawberry-Dubai chocolate cups. Gelato is Selvi’s department and except for fresh fruits and dairy, virtually all of the ingredients are imported from Italy. Flavors include a killer pistachio, tiramisu, wild berry minty chip, chocolate banana, sour cherry yogurt, cotton candy, salted caramel, espresso chip, red velvet, gianduja (chocolate-hazelnut). Among sorbettos are green apple and mango.

La Fogata BBQ, Williston Park

Long Island's new barbecue restaurant, La Fogata in Williston Park, takes its cues from the cuisine of Ecuador. The menu at La Fogata ("the bonfire" in Spanish) checks many Brazilian boxes, with picaña (top sirloin cap), skirt steak, T-bone and pork or beef ribs grilled over live flames. The modest restaurant isn’t set up for rodizio (all-you-can-eat), but you can order a bandeja a la parilla, grilled meat platter, that will easily feed four. Side dishes include rice, beans, french fries, sausages, plantains and fried eggs. There’s a small selection of seafood dishes (ceviche as well as grilled and fried), empanadas and the distinctively Ecuadorian fish stew, encebollado.

Saffire, Commack

A longtime fixture on the Long Island dining scene, Chani Singh is back after a 10-year absence. In June, his Saffire South Asian restaurant took over the Commack space that was most recently Il Toscano (and, before that, Hooks & Chops). "South Asian" is how he describes a repertoire that is mostly Indian and Pakistani, with a little Afghan and Nepali thrown in for good measure. The venue is big enough to allow Singh to do à la carte dining as well as to host parties of up to 150 people. A rarity among local South Asian restaurants, it can also accommodate up to 100 diners outside. (Another rarity: A full bar.) There are some East-West mashups (duck breast with mixed-nut pilaf and orange gastrique, Punjabi hummus) and a few dishes from the Indo-Chinese Hakka repertoire (Manchurian cauliflower, Hakka noodles) but the menu comprises mostly traditional dishes: small plates such as samosas, paani puri and kathi rolls; curries such as tikka masala, korma, vindaloo and kadai (ginger, chilies and cilantro); kebabs such as seekh (minced lamb and chicken), lamb boti and paneer.

Cibo Pasta Bar, Wantagh

The swank new Cibo Pasta Bar offers 12 sauces, from Bolognese to porcini-Cognac, cacio e pepe to pesto and everything in between. Six fresh pastas made daily include trofie, spaghetti and pappardelle, plus dry-cut options like ziti. Pick a sauce, pick a pasta, indulge. If you’re still hungry, entrees include rosemary-and-garlic-infused lamb chops ($50) and a filet with white peppercorn sauce ($56), plus the fish of the day. The star of the menu is Zozzona sauce, all of Rome’s most famous sauces — carbonara, Amatriciana and cacio e pepe — combined. To start, there’s bone marrow alongside a light chimichurri, braised short rib over polenta, and soft, fried calamari drizzled with Gorgonzola cream — initially confusing, ultimately delicious. Cooler options include burrata with black truffle and honey, a shellfish plate of shrimp, crab and lobster, plus salads from shaved Caesar to a summer version with watermelon, goat cheese, candied walnuts and arugula.

Bikanervala, Hicksville

Pass the burfi — a new Indian sweet shop just landed in Hicksville and it's quite the experience. An international chain from Delhi, Bikanervala has locations in New Jersey but none in New York, until now. Tucked into a small shopping center on Broadway, the strip mall store is quite lively for a brand that's 120 years old. The Hicksville shop has a similar vibe to the nearby Mithaas, a Newsday Top 50 restaurant. The neatly-designed space is bursting with color and a long counter of Indian sweets of every shape, size and hue. There are neon green patties with nuts inside, sweets that look like turnovers, syrupy balls of gulab jamun and treats that look like European cheeses. Another wall showcases an open kitchen where you can watch cooks dishing up curries into plastic trays and forming beautiful breads to scoop everything up. With lots of names and no explanations, the menu might be intimidating to people not versed in Indian snack food culture. A good way to handle this is to order the seasonal thali meal, which is a sampler plate of flavorful dips and breads. It comes with a loaf of soan papdi which is made from stringy layers of sweet gram flour that you pull apart with your fingers. 

Artemis, Station Yards in Ronkonkoma

It seems like every bar is calling itself a speakeasy these days, but here's one that actually takes the idea seriously: Nestled in the Station Yards housing and shopping complex in Ronkonkoma, Artemis is so hard to find that I had to ask a security guard how to get there. The vibe feels like a private club for 1920s aristocrats. Co-owner Ed Fabian, who's also involved with Billie's 1890 Saloon in Port Jefferson and Culpers 1778 steakhouse in East Setauket, said he and business partner Brendan Mooney spent nearly two years getting the project to fruition, and designed most of the interior themselves including sourcing their own turn-of-the-century light fixtures from salvation yards and auctions. Nick McCaslin of 1653 Pizza Company in Huntington was brought in to design and run the bar program, which is heavy on classic cocktails. You'll probably want to order something dark and bourbon-y like the South Bay sazerac, a straightforward take on the iconic drink with a splash of absinthe adding an herbal note. You'll find a decent wine selection as well as a substantial list of reserve wines and spirits. There's also a changing menu of bar bites, the most compelling of which is the grazing plate. It's actually a steal for how much meat and cheese you get, a hearty spread of European offerings that includes a fat slab of pate.

Pasta Project, Farmingdale

Pasta Project in Farmingdale is taking an Italian tradition and giving it a mass-market, quick-serve, maximalist American twist. Pasta alla ruota — pasta tossed in a hollowed-out wheel of cheese — became popular in Italy 30 or 40 years ago before crossing the Atlantic and becoming a tableside spectacle in America. Here on Long Island you can find it at Osteria Umbra in Smithtown and One10 in Melville, among other fine-dining restaurants. But Pasta Project is within a pizzeria (Gino’s of Farmingdale) and the dish takes five minutes to make. How do they do it so fast? By making fresh spaghetti and mezze rigatoni that require only four minutes to cook, and preparing the dish right in front of you. You could stop there but the Pasta Project drill involves an additional sauce — tomato, cacio e pepe, Bolognese, pesto or Sunday (with sausage and meatballs) and additional toppings, such as burrata, broccoli, sautéed eggplant, sun-dried peppers, meatballs or grilled chicken. The possibilities are virtually limitless but most customers avail themselves of one of four signature combos: Alla Norma (tomato sauce, eggplant, ricotta, basil), Holy Sunday (Sunday sauce, burrata, basil), Truffle Mushroom (cacio e pepe sauce, sherry-wine mushrooms, truffle oil), Pesto Siciliano (pesto, sun-dried peppers, baby mozzarella).

Tous Les Jours, Centereach

Centereach is now a tad more chic with the opening of its newest bakery, Tous Les Jours. It's the third Long Island location for the Korea-based French bakery. Tous Les Jours, which translates to "every day" in French, is lined with self-serve bakery cases stocked with treats both savory and sweet, from kimchi croquets to cheese and blueberry Danish ($4.49) and crookies. Tous Les Jours also sells a range of bread and cakes. Besides brewed coffee, espresso and tea, beverages include iced hot chocolate, smoothies and lemonade.

German Doner Kebab, Centereach

Centereach has become a magnet for international chain restaurants lately. Now comes German Doner Kebab to the mix. The doner kebab is a unique dish that came about when Turkish communities emigrated to Berlin in the 1960s and '70s. They brought along their spinning rotisserie meats, and eventually the kebab morphed into a sandwich with fresh and crunchy salad toppings. Today, the doner kebab is one of the most popular latenight street foods in the capital, alongside currywurst. German Doner Kebab is based in the United Kingdom, with more than 170 stores internationally. You can get your doner in a sandwich with the waffle bread, or made into a wrap, thrown on a rice bowl, or stuffed into a doner box with crispy fries. The doner itself is packed with shredded purple cabbage, raw onions, lettuce and tomato as well as a mélange of garlic yogurt sauces. 

Speak easy Tapas Bar, East Rockaway

Speak easy Tapas Bar in East Rockaway looks like the type of neighborhood joint you'd stumble upon, opened by Frank Pollack, a well-known bartender in the Long Beach area, having worked at Corazon de Cuba and Felicia, a newer bistro on Park Avenue in Long Beach and A Taberna in Island Park. The menu is bistro fare, like potato croquettes and whipped ricotta cheese. Pollack is a well-known bartender in the Long Beach area, having worked at Corazon de Cuba and Felicia, a newer bistro on Park Avenue in Long Beach and A Taberna in Island Park. The highlight of the small menu is the signature burger, made with a blend of chuck and brisket that stays juicy even if customers order it well-done. The burger is laced with melted Gruyere and bourbon sautéed onions, which add a sweet funk to the soft affair. A shareable plate of whipped ricotta also stands out, with its spectacularly puffy pita bread. The thoughtful plating and interesting flavors punch above their level. But many people will still come in just to see Pollack, and enjoy a bourbon cocktail (his favorite is the classic old-fashioned without any muddled cherries or oranges).

Brasas Peru Bistro Bar, Huntington

Slow and steady wins the race. What started as a takeout spot in Franklin Square in 2015 has expanded with another full service restaurant, Brasas Peru Bistro, which recently opened in Huntington village.  After a glow-up of the former Osteria da Nino — adding dark leather banquettes, light wooden ceiling and a cascading floral chandelier over the bar — this Brasas outpost feels cozier than its older sibling to the west. The food, however, remains true to the Peruvian culinary canon. Start with a mix of cold ceviches and tiraditos — the Nikkei style, which includes salmon in an ají amarillo and passionfruit tiger’s milk, is a standout. Or try the solterito, Peru’s answer to the chopped salad, made with oversize corn, fava beans, queso fresco, rocoto peppers — and in this case — quinoa. Warm appetizers include the classic papa a la huancaína, composed of sliced boiled potatoes, bits of hard-boiled egg and olives smothered in an amarillo-spiced sauce, as well as salchipapas, or Peruvian-style hot dogs and fries.

The Whales Tale, Hampton Bays

After 16 years in Northport, The Whales Tale is making a splashy debut out east. The restaurant opened in Hampton Bays June 3 at the former Tully’s Fish Market and Snack Shack. The Hampton Bays location offers the same menu of crowd-pleasing comfort food, with starters including mussels, elote con queso or corn with cheese guacamole and loaded street fries. Mains include sandwiches like a tuna BLT and rice bowls. Cocktails include a watermelon mojito made with rum, lime juice, watermelon, simple syrup and mint. A grab-and-go market offers tacos, lobster rolls, ice cream, smoothies and coffee.

No Good Burger Joint, Rockville Centre

One of Long Island's top burger spots, No Good Burger Joint, is known for its thick steak burgers brimming with decadent toppings like vodka sauce and macaroni and cheese. The small but mighty restaurant, which opened in Baldwin in 2017, is on Newsday's standout burgers list. So it's a surprise that its new Rockville Centre location eschews the beefy burgers for a slimmed-down smashburger that's half the size of the original. And yet, it's still a fantastic burger. The new spot has a pared-down menu that focuses more on classic burgers than the kitschy nostalgia of Baldwin's No Good Burger Joint. But the attention to detail is still there, with the same high-quality burger blend from Double R Ranch, ground in-house every day. The mushroom Swiss is eight to 10 bites of beefy heaven. The plump 'shrooms are contained under the Martin's potato roll and the cheese melts over the crispy burger edges in the most manageable way. There are seven burger options, and the wildest one is a Hawaiian burger with pineapple, bacon and a fried egg.

Jade Eatery & Lounge, Port Washington

Jade identifies as "modern Asian fusion," but that doesn’t convey the breadth of the menu. Globe-trotting through Japan, Thailand, China and India (as well as the Hakka repertoire of Chinese restaurants in India), it’s apparently too broad to be printed and lives on a tablet that customers swipe through.  This overwhelming electronic document lists 26 appetizers (including crab Rangoon, coconut shrimp with mango sweet chili, sriracha wings, steamed dumplings, chicken satay, Manchurian cauliflower) and seven soups (e.g. tom kha, miso, hot and sour). The sushi menu is further subdivided into nine sushi appetizers, 31 rolls and 19 entrées. There are more than 50 entrees (divided among steak, lamb, chicken, seafood, noodles, rice, vegetarian and tacos) and then an additional 38 "Mughlai kitchen" entrees (tandoor, biryani and more South Asian dishes). 

Bahia Restaurant & Bar Latin Food, Brightwaters

Colombian and Ecuadorian fare come together at Brightwaters newest restaurant, Bahia Restaurant & Bar Latin Food. The new eatery opened last month in the space that was previously home to Lulu’s and then JTI’s American Kitchen and Bar. Although owner Hernan Hernandez is Colombian, he has 11 years of experience with Ecuadorian food through his deli, Ecua Deli on Brook Avenue in Bay Shore. To ensure authenticity of the dishes, Hernandez hired two chefs: Edgar Hernandez, who has worked in Colombian restaurants for more than 15 years, and Emma Criollo, who specializes in Ecuadorian fare. The menu boasts Colombian classics such as the picada bahia, which includes beef, chicken, pork, sausage french fries and twice-fried green plantain slices. Ecuadorian dishes include the chaulafan, also known as the Ecuadorian chicken fried rice, made with a combination of meats, sauces and seasonings. Treats include pastries like pan de bono and Colombian cheese bread. Singers Daniel Orozco and Janann Velasco are among Latin American artists who play live music, and there are karaoke nights.

The Old Mill Inn, Mattituck

It’s been out of commission for eight years, but The Old Mill Inn in Mattituck is back. Lovingly restored and packing crack front- and back-of-house teams, it may well be this year’s "it" North Fork restaurant. The Old Mill Inn, a 200-year-old structure on Mattituck Creek that, after many owners and iterations, had given up the ghost in 2017. Owner Anthony Martignetti started restoring the property in 2018, moving the building off its foundation for a year, sinking 67 new pilings into the creek and raising the foundation 5 feet before putting the building back. He kept as much of the old structure as possible, including the original beams, the gear cog (that turned the millstone) and, from its earliest days as a tavern, the zinc bar. The decor of the 50-seat dining room is classic, vaguely nautical, but never tilts into nostalgic kitsch. The newly built deck, with a more modern feel, seats another 20 people. A lower deck, with another 50 seats, is used only for drinks. There are local treasures such as Peeko and Little Ram oysters, greens from KK’s The Farm in Southold, asparagus from Cooper’s Farm in Mattituck. Starters include smoked beet dip with labne and grilled pita, black-garlic chicken wings and fluke ceviche. Mains include Baja-style fish tacos ($24) and a fine lobster roll ($44) at lunch, roast chicken with maitake mushrooms and salsa verde and swordfish with red-pepper chimichurri at dinner, and fish and chips and double burger with Gruyère and garlic aioli all day. 

Culpers 1778, East Setauket

When new owners took over Mario’s, the half-century-old Italian that closed in 2023 and just reopened as Culpers 1778, they totally changed the menu and the decor but they were adamant that it remain a place for locals. The new restaurant’s name digs deep into the community’s past, referring to the Setauket-based Culper Ring which, according to the Three Village Historical Society, was "the nation’s first spy ring ... providing General George Washington with critical information that helped turn the tide of the American Revolution."  All three partners grew up in the Three Village area (Stony Brook and the Setaukets), live and do business nearby. Fabian is a partner in Billie’s 1890 Saloon in Port Jefferson as well as Artemis, the Prohibition-themed cocktail bar that just opened at Station Yards in Ronkonkoma. Scott Brittman and Chris Otero also own Port Jefferson’s Whiskey Barrel. Chef Ron Chodkowski's menu features a tight roster of prime steaks — filet mignon, strip, rib-eye, tomahawk for two and porterhouse for two. Beyond the beef is a modern American menu with starters including crab cakes with herb aioli and shaved asparagus salad, duck arancini with truffle aioli, beef tartare, burrata with peperonata and toasted pine nuts, Caesar salad and charred Brussels sprouts. Mains include roast chicken with broccolini and cauliflower puree, steak frites au poivre with hand-cut fries, short-rib pappardelle, grilled beef Wellington with roasted heirloom carrots, seared scallops with fregola and lobster sauce, butterflied branzino with salsa verde and a half-pound dry-aged burger with pickles, onions, Cheddar and 1778 sauce.

The Barn, Huntington

Refurbishing the old Dairy Barn drive-throughs on Long Island is bordering on trend: The Barn, which launched in Merrick, has expanded to a second location in Huntington. Joining forces with For Five Coffee for the caffeine, The Barn is a latte lovers’ drive-thru dream. The hot and iced specialty drinks are colorful, playful and peppy in flavors like Summer 'Smores (latte topped with toasted marshmallows and graham crackers), Powdered Donut (a sprinkle of cinnamon and an actual powdered doughnut crowning the cup). There's a rainbow cookie latte with requisite rainbow cookies on top, even a Dubai chocolate matcha latte. More basic coffee beverages, such as chai lattes, vanilla lattes and plain old iced coffees, can be had as well as a variety of iced teas, lemonades — the green matcha lemonade is a standout — and soft serve ice cream. Besides all the sugar and TikTok madness, the original purpose of the Dairy Barns of yesteryear was convenience. So, fret not when you run out of orange juice and eggs for breakfast, Doritos for soccer snacks, peanut butter for school lunches, and coffee beans for clarity, The Barn has you covered on that front too.