Review: JIA in Port Washington
Clockwise from left, cumin lamb potstickers, crystal shrimp dumplings and crispy taro-wrapped shrimp at Jia in Port Washington. Credit: Linda Rosier
JIA isn’t your usual Sunday night Chinese. Three years after opening, the Port Washington jewelbox of a restaurant has maintained, perhaps exceeded, its original vision. With some exceptions, the mostly Cantonese dishes will feel familiar, but it's the spin and execution that makes them soar. This is a fine-dining experience that relies on quality ingredients, artistic plating and impeccable service.
JIA
Range of entrees: $30-$55
Handicapped accessibility: Stairs at front entrance. Accessible handicap lift in back of restaurant. Let staff know for use.
Attributes: Good for date night, Outdoor seating, Celebrations
Reservations: Suggested for dinner
84 Old Shore Rd., Port Washington
Chef Kand Hu's artful dim sum menu is a wide sample of both steamed and crispy options including mushroom spring rolls, scallion pancakes and taro-wrapped shrimp, all included in the Wheel of Fortune carousel. There’s pork and shrimp wonton soup to warm the soul on cool days; on warmer ones, start with Kumamoto oysters with uni, caviar and yuzu or yellowfin tuna sashimi salad.
Dumplings are a specialty here — try the seasonal offering, but always available are lush, crystal shrimp dumplings, meticulously packed with shrimp and fresh bamboo shoots, tinted pink and brushed with gold leaf. Shanghai soup dumplings are handmade to order, crowned with sweet-tart goji berries.
Credit: Yvonne Albinowski
Notable dishes
Crystal shrimp dumplings, tea-smoked chicken, stir-fried lobster, steamed whole fish, Peking duck.
Tip:
Open for lunch and dinner, you can avoid waits and reservations at lunch, the only time the Wheel of Fortune and steamed dumpling tastings are available.
For large plates, the crispy tea-smoked chicken is made with Bo Bo Farms heritage poultry and brined for 24 hours. The stir-fried lobster, a classic Cantonese dish, is served with ginger-scallion sauce and can be had with extra-long, or longevity, crab noodles. JIA's steamed whole fish changes with the market, but is prepared in lotus leaf with black bean sauce. Seafood fried rice is made with lump crabmeat, jumbo shrimp, bay scallops and squid. Peking duck is accompanied by homemade pancakes, sliced cucumber and scallions, hoisin and a "seasonal" sauce.
It's all served in a dining room with minimalist white walls, blond wood and contemporary light fixtures.
Back to Top 50 RestaurantsFind more restaurants:
A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.
