Review: Rincon Criollo in Huntington Station and New Hyde Park

It takes a lot of skill to make a new restaurant feel timeless. But that's the vibe at Rincon Criollo, a Queens institution since 1976 and an icon of New York's Cuban food scene.

The business dates back to the '50s, before the Cuban Revolution. After the Acosta family's restaurant in Havana was taken away by the government, brothers Jesus Rene and Rodobaldo Acosta opened in Corona. Third-generation siblings Rudy and Esther Acosta opened a second location in Huntington Station in 2015; the storied restaurant in Corona relocated to New Hyde Park in 2024. Decked out with old family photographs and vintage antiques, both are instant charmers (see framed celebrity portraits of Celia Cruz, John Leguizamo and Guy Fieri on display).

But the cooking is even more magical.

The menu includes classic Cuban dishes that lasted through the generations, like the roast pork dish lechon asado, the ground beef stew picadillo, and — our favorite — the slow-cooked ropa vieja. The juicy shredded beef is slicked with oil and steeped in a vinegary tomato paste, with flavor for days. 

But there are also lesser-known stars of the Cuban kitchen, like rabo encendido, a homey dish of oxtails braised in a red wine tomato sauce until the meat becomes soft and glutinous. Rip off a piece from the bone with your fork and spoon the velveteen sauce over the white rice. On Wednesdays, Rincon Criollo offers rabo encendido alongside a hearty cup of split pea soup laced with bacon for the same price.

The cooking here is undoubtedly rich, but if you're looking for something lighter, the Cuban sandwich is one of the tastiest versions to be found on Long Island. The thin sandwich, recently added to the regular menu by popular request, is made with deli ham and slow-roasted pork pernil pressed together with melty Swiss cheese, yellow mustard and thinly sliced pickles. A destination on its own. 

Back to Top 50 Restaurants

Find more restaurants: